I’m probably being a little paranoid here, but I’ve decided to protect the wires coming out of the hall sensors up near the flywheel. These connections are needed to keep the engine running. I fear an alternator belt snapping and whipping around as it’s sort of hung up in the area for awhile cutting the wires. Of course, it would have to cut both wires for it to be a real issue, thus maybe I shouldn’t worry about this too much.. However, the solution really didn’t take too much time to implement. I bent up some 0.032″ metal to wrap around the sensor as shown below. One side has a narrower flange to accommodate the alternator tensioning arm.
Below you can see the hall sensor and the use of these small center locating punches that screw into a hole and mark the exact location to drill for the bolt.
Previously I had used this technique to locate the 2 holes for the SDS fuel pressure regulator on the firewall and forgot to write about it previously. I used a piece of scrap metal to drill and use as a template to drill the firewall.
I placed the unit down on the scrap metal and tapped it with a rubber mallet to mark the location location of the holes that needed to be drilled.
This technique worked perfectly and allowed me to drill holes for the regulator on the firewall that exactly matched the hole location on the regulator.
Back to the metal guard for the hall sensor… I punched the top side, drilled the hole, and once that hole was located, I installed the bolt and marked the location of the 2nd hole then drilled that and bolted it to the hall sensor mount. Below is a test fit of both bolts installed.
I re-used some aluminum fuel line to route the wires from the hall sensors through. I used an Adel clamp to secure it with the one of the bolts. drilled a hole through the baffle and installed a piece of angle on the aft part of the baffle for another adel clamp.
Below is the whole thing put together. Obviously the wires will ultimately be routed through the tube, but I need to remove the baffle and paint it at some point, so waiting to do that until after that is completed.
Also the DB-9 connectors on the end of the hall sensor wires are soldered on.. so another reason to delay putting them through the tube just yet.
My engine builder supplied a flywheel with the magnets for the SDS system already installed, but I needed to install the magnets in the dual pulley flywheel suppled by Airflow AC. I basically followed this blog linked on the SDS website. https://tasrv10.com/?p=2822.
Below is drilling the holes with the drill guide provided by Ross.
I wasn’t quite as lucky as the linked blog post and the hole sort of ate into part of the grove, but not completely.
I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy, as specified, and also applied red loctite onto one of the grub screws, which was inserted into the hole from the outside. The magnet was inserted into the hole from the outside. The grub screw was screwed down until the magnet was basically flush with the inner surface of the flywheel.
Once everything cured.. I decided to buy the Devcon Titanium putty recommended in the in the linked blog. It is expensive and you really need a very small amount compared to what is provided, but I didn’t want to skimp on this. I prepped the flywheel and applied the putty to each hole location as shown below.
I let the putty cure for approx. 3 hours and then sanded it using a combo of files and sandpaper. It was a bunch of work, but the end result is what is shown below.
One other thing left was to size up the air intake into the left size heat muff. I mocked this up with some skeet tubing I has lying around. It seemed like it would work, stealing some air from the left side intake,.
I cut a 2″ hole in the left snorkel.
I took a 2″ duct and flox’ed it in place over the hole that was drilled. Once cured, I re-test fit the skeet tube to the exhaust.
I then laid up some fiberglass cloth and some peel ply to glass over the flanges of the 2″ metal tube.
I was then able to get back to finishing up the condenser install of the Air conditioning. I utilized some scrap metal along with some construction paper to mark out the center lines of the connections on the aft side of the unit. I did decide to use some straight connectors that Airflow systems provided to put the connections in the first bay from the tunnel.
I used some cardboard to enlarge the holes and make sure the holes were in the right position prior to drilling into the bottom fuselage. Everything seemed to be correct.
I then took the metal template and screwed it into position and prepared to drill the holes to mark out where the hoses are to be placed.
Then I screwed the AC scoop into position and test fit the aft hoses that go up into the fuselage. Everything worked out well as shown below.
I installed some grommets into the holes to seal them as much as possible.
A view from the inside with the connections coming up through the fuselage skins.