Now that the main part of the cowl is fitted, it was time to move onto getting the baffling started.
The start of section FF2 of the plans.
You start off by marking up the #6 cylinder baffle for the scat tube that’ll go to the oil cooler. Also some holes for the top spark plug wires to pass through. Below you see the flange located in place and some holes drilled per plans.
The inner and outer circles were marked. The inner circle was cut out to allow air to flow through to the oil cooler.
The entire #6 assembly is then all riveted together.
A similar thing was done for the #5 baffle. The one thing I did different here was to utilize the RV-14 baffle modification. This provides more space between the aft-most cylinder fins and the baffling to get cooling air through and avoids doing “the washer trick” that several refer to.
It’s key to do this prior to cutting the 2” duct hole as it will need to move up.
I started by cutting off the existing piece of the baffle that wraps around the cylinder.
I then put the CB-00028, CB-00029, and CB-00030 pieces I ordered from Van’s in place of the wrap around piece that was cut off.
Below you can see that I relocated the 2” duct hole a little higher up on the baffle compared to the plans.
I worked on adding the doublers on the other baffle pieces only to end up with a pile of baffle parts ready to trim, as needed, to fit around my valve covers.
I worked on fitting the #5 and #6 cylinder baffles in place and putting on the Aerosport engine mount covers. 3 #6 screws were used with nut plates to attach making sure to not drill into the mounting ears.
Below the baffling is complete, yet to be trimmed.
In anticipation of starting on the Showplanes intake I temporarily installed the exhaust pipes.
I also worked on making sure my AC compressor was as close to final position as possible. It’s a bunch of tweaking with a couple of different belt lengths, mounting spacers, and arm lengths, to get it all right. There is very little space between the belt tensioner and the starter.